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▪ I. tartan, n.1 orig. Sc.|ˈtɑːtən|
Also 6–7 tartane, tertane, (6 teartane).
[Of uncertain origin: in use early in 16th c.
It has been conjectured to be a. F. tiretaine (1247 in Godef. Compl.) ‘a kind of cloth, half wool, half linen or cotton’, for which a variant tertaine is quoted by Godefroy of date 1487: cf. the 16th c. Sc. spelling tertane. Another conjecture would identify the cloth with that called tartar or tartarin (q.v.) of which the 16th c. forms tartarne, tarterne, somewhat approach tartane. But the quots. for tartar and tartarin point to a richer and more costly stuff.]
1. a. A kind of woollen cloth woven in stripes of various colours crossing at right angles so as to form a regular pattern; worn chiefly by the Scottish Highlanders, each clan having generally its distinctive pattern; often preceded by a clan-name, etc. denoting a particular traditional or authorized design. Also, the pattern or design of such cloth, and applied to silk and other fabrics having a similar pattern. shepherds' tartan, shepherds' plaid: see quot. 1882. In quot. 1810 pl. tartan garments.
a1500Symmye & Bruder 22 in Sibbald Chron. Sc. Poetry (1802) I. 360 Syne schupe thame up, to lowp owr leiss, Twa tabartis of the tartane. 1533Acc. Ld. High Treas. Scotl. VI. 79 For fresing of ane tartane galcot. Ibid. 80 Ane uthir tartane galcoit gevin to the King be the Maister Forbes. 1538Ibid. 436 Item, for iij elnis of heland tertane to be hois to the Kingis grace, price of the elne iiij s. iiij d. 1546Aberdeen Regr. (1844) I. 236 Item, ane vob of tartane, contenand x ellis, the price of ell iiij s. Ibid., Ane blankat of tartane. 1548–51Ibid. XX. (Jam.), Ane gelcoit of quhit tertane. 1630J. Taylor (Water P.) Pennilesse Pilgr. Wks. i. 135/1 Stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warme stuffe of diuers colours, which they call Tartane. 1806Gazetteer Scotl. (ed. 2) 395 Of late the greater part of the tartan for the army has been manufactured in this parish [St. Ninians]. 1810Scott Lady of L. iii. xxvii, Their feathers dance, their tartans float,..A wild and warlike groupe they stand. 1821D. Stewart Sk. Highlanders Scotl. I. iii. i. 229 The pipers wore a red tartan of very bright colours, (of the pattern known by the name of the Stewart tartan). 1855Macaulay Hist. Eng. xiii. III. 354 Men wearing the same tartan, and attached to the same lord, were arrayed against each other. 1862‘Shirley’ Nugæ Crit. vi. 239 Dressed in a bodice and kirtle of shepherd tartan. 1882Ogilvie (Annandale), Shepherd's..tartan, a kind of small check pattern in cloth, woven with black and white warp and weft; (b) a kind of cloth..woven in this pattern—generally made into shepherd's plaids. 1891Cent. Dict. s.v., Silk tartan, a silk material for women's dresses and men's waistcoats, woven in the style of the Scottish clan tartans. 1897Private Life of Queen xxv. 209 The writing-room is hung entirely with the Balmoral tartan. 1905Times 7 Sept. 5/4 Considerable success has followed the bringing out of quite a variety of tartans for next spring. 1906Athenæum 2 June 671/2 The whole question of the date of clan tartans is difficult. 1949‘J. Tey’ Brat Farrar xiii. 114 A frayed Stewart tartan ribbon off a box of Edinburgh rock. 1981Times 3 Feb. 17/6 Streaming from her helmet were two lengths of Colquhoun tartan from the clan of which her father was chief.
b. transf. Applied to one who wears tartan; a Highlander; collectively, those who wear tartan; the body of Highlanders; the men of a Highland regiment.
1817Canning in Hanna Mem. Chalmers (1849) II. v. 102 The tartan [so runs the speech attributed to him, i.e. Canning, regarding Dr. C.] beats us all. 1859Colin Campbell in A. Forbes Life v. 127 [Then Sir Colin called to Colonel Ewart,] ‘Ewart! Bring on the tartan!’..[and the seven companies of the Ninety-Third dashed from behind the bank].
c. Used to denote young people who are members of Protestant gangs in Northern Ireland, from their traditional support of Glasgow Rangers Football Club.
1972Guardian 17 Mar. 1/3 The local Protestant street gangs, mainly known as ‘Tartans’ because of their traditional association with the Rangers Football club. 1974Listener 14 Mar. 324/2 Until recently these streets were terrorised by Tartan Gangs. Now their place has been taken by these youngsters, acting in the name of the Loyalist cause... Their behaviour is modelled on the Tartans. 1977P. Carter Under Goliath iii. 15 Most of the kids were in tough Prod gangs, like the Tartans.
2. Angling. Name of an artificial salmon-fly.
1837J. Kirkbride Northern Angler 73 What is called the tartan-fly kills well in the Highlands at the clearing of the water. 1847T. T. Stoddart Angler's Compan. xiii. 240 Salmon flies... The Tartan. Mottled black and white tail feather from turkey. 1867F. Francis Angling x. 315 The Tartan is a strange looking fly. [Description follows.]
3. Short for tartan-purry: see 5 b. Sc.
1893Henderson Old World Scotl. 80 Of oatmeal we have tartan—a pudding made chiefly of chopped kale and oatmeal.
4. (Properly with capital initial.) The proprietary name of a synthetic resin material used for surfacing running tracks, ramps, etc. Usu. attrib., as Tartan track.
1964Official Gaz. (U.S. Patent Office) 14 Jan. tm 60/1 Tartan. For synthetic resin material for application to various surfaces..To provide a resilient surface theron. First use Aug. 28, 1962. 1968Listener 10 Oct. 485/2 The 100-metre final is also on Day Three. A fast time with thin air, the ‘tartan’ track and, maybe, the new brush spike, is inevitable. 1969Trade Marks Jrnl. 22 Oct. 1732/1 Tartan... Synthetic resins for use as floor and road surfacing materials. 1972Radio Times 1 June 13/3 Britain's sprint hope..says..‘I've got a good coach, there's a tartan track two minutes up the road.’
5. attrib.
a. Made of tartan; having a chequered pattern like that of tartan.
1533[see 1]. 1549Fragm. Ayr Burgh Rec. (Gen. Reg. Ho., Edinb.), Item for teartane claith, aucht lib. 1721Ramsay Tartana 78 Who 'midst the snows the best of limbs can fold In Tartan Plaids, and smile at chilling cold. c1750in Ritson Sc. Songs (1794) II. 107 O! to see his tartan trouze, Bonnet blue, and laigh-heel'd shoes! 1853‘C. Bede’ Verdant Green i. vii, A gentleman clad in tartan-plaid. 1869E. A. Parkes Pract. Hygiene (ed. 3) 403 One pair of tartan trousers in rifle regiments.
b. tartan-purry (Sc. local): see quots.
c1746Forbes Dominie ii. (1785) 35 Tartan-purry, meal and bree, Or butt'ry brose. 1790Shirrefs Poems Gloss., Tartan purry, a sort of pudding made of red colewort chipped small, and mixed with oatmeal. 1819W. Tennant Papistry Storm'd (1827) 52 Some ran to parritch, some to kail;..And some to tartan-purry. 1866T. Edmondston Gloss. Shetl. & Orkn., Tart-and-purrie, porridge made with the water in which cabbage has been boiled.
c. Used loosely in various transf. and fig. collocations to designate something pertaining to Scotland or which evokes Scottish nationalist fervour.
1954J. P. Barter (title) Ritchie; or, behind the Tartan Curtain. 1975Globe & Mail (Toronto) 27 Sept. 6/6 The British press has taken extreme care to avoid the suggestion that the activities of the ‘Tartan Army’ are linked to the legitimate national movement embodied in the Scottish National Party. 1976Listener 28 Oct. 555/2 Radio 3's Scottish Evening... Overall there was a blessed absence of..Tartan Romanticism. 1982Times 9 Jan. 6/1 Almost all Scottish MPs..are Scots by birth... It is not simply raw xenophobic tartan nationalism.
▸ tartan tax n. Brit. Polit. (freq. depreciative) (also with capital initials) tax raised by an (originally putative) Scottish assembly after devolution, usually with reference to such tax being potentially higher than that raised by Westminster.
1992Scotsman 11 Mar. 5/1 (headline) Heseltine makes *tartan tax claim... ‘Labour in Scotland would use their half baked scheme for a tax raising Scottish parliament to tax the people of Scotland more highly than the people of England, Wales and Northern Ireland—Labour's very own tartan tax.’ 2002Evening News (Edinb.) (Electronic ed.) 23 May Many of the SNP's current policies may be to the left of Labour—scrapping nuclear weapons, opposing the private finance initiative and being ready to use the tartan tax.
▪ II. tartan, tartane, n.2
(ˈtɑːtən, ‖ tartan)
Also 7 tartain.
[a. Fr. tartane (1632 in Hatz.-Darm.), a. It., = Sp., Pg. tartana, supposed by Diez to be derived from Arab. tarīdah: see tarette. But connecting evidence is wanting.]
A small one-masted vessel with a large lateen sail and a foresail, used in the Mediterranean; = tartana1.
1621Admiralty Crt. Exam. No. 43. 24 Aug., A small vessel called a tartain flotinge and driveinge to and fro in the sea. 1666Lond. Gaz. No. 77/2 A small Tartane arrived here two daies since from Provence. 1697W. Dampier Voy. round World (1699) 30 Captain Wright..had taken a Spanish Tartan, wherein were 30 men, all well armed. 1756–7tr. Keysler's Trav. (1760) IV. 119 A Turkish tartane, with red colours, emblazoned with three crescents, &c. was performing quarantine. 1805Wilkes in Mem. II. 171, I could not go in a small tartan without some one friend. 1896Vizetelly Zola's Rome 295 The few tartanes which brought wine from Sicily, never came higher than the Aventine.
▪ III. tartan, n.3 rare—0.
= tartana3.
1858Simmonds Dict. Trade, Tartan,..a long covered carriage.
▪ IV. ‖ tartan, n.4
[Assyrian. See 2 Kings xviii. 17, Isa. xx. 1.]
The ancient Assyrian commander-in-chief.
1880Cheyne Isaiah (1884) I. 16 No Satraps nor Tartans are necessary. 1893Sayce Higher Crit. (1894) 427 The ‘tartan’ of Sargon entered Jerusalem and forced Hezekiah to become his tributary. 1899T. Nicoll Rec. Archæol. & Bible vii. 255 The Tartan fought against Ashdod and took it.
▪ V. ˈtartan, v.
[f. tartan n.1]
trans. To clothe or array in tartan; also fig. So tartaned |ˈtɑːtənd| a., clothed in tartan, wearing tartans.
1813Hogg Queen's Wake 283 Tartaned chiefs in raptures hear The strains, the words, to them so dear. 1875A. Smith Aberdeenshire I. 656 The crested chief led on his tartaned band. 1881J. F. Campbell in Ld. A. Campbell Rec. Argyll (1885) 441, I was first tartaned, more than fifty years ago. |