| 释义 |
▪ I. buckram, n.|ˈbʌkrəm|
Forms: 3, 5 bukeram, (4 bougeren), 4, 6 bukram, 5 bokram, 5–6 bokeram, -ham, 6 bocram(e, -keram, bucram, -um, buckeram(e, -mme, 6–7 buckrom, -erom, -orome, 8 buchram, 6– buckram.
[Found in most of the European langs. between 12th and 15th c.; cf. OF. boquerant (12th c.), bouqueran, bouquerrant, bouguerant, mod.F. bougran, Pr. bocaran, Cat. bocaram (Diez), Sp. bucaran, It. bucherame (in Boccaccio 14th c.), med.L. (in France) boquerannus, bucaranus, (in Italy) buchiranus; also MHG. buggeram, buggeran, buckeram, MDu. bocraen, bocrael, bollecraen, boucraen. In early continental and apparently in early Eng. use it denoted a costly and delicate fabric, sometimes of cotton and sometimes of linen; but it afterwards acquired the sense of coarse gummed linen used for linings, thus becoming synonymous with Sp. bocací, F. boucassin, bocasin; and this meaning it retains in modern Eng., Fr., and It. (The MHG. lexicographers state that in that lang. the word meant ‘a fabric of goat's hair’, but this explanation may perhaps be a conjecture founded on a supposed derivation from Ger. bock buck n.1) As the Eng. forms generally have m, while all the Fr. forms have n, it is possible that the word may have been adopted into Eng. not from Fr. but from Italian. For the history of the word in Europe, and its probable changes of meaning, see Col. Yule's Marco Polo I. 46–48 and 59.
Of the ultimate etymology nothing is really known. Some refer to It. bucherare ‘to pierce full of holes’, supposing that the name was first given to a kind of muslin or net (cf. quot. 1548 in 1). Reiske (in Constantin. Porphyrog. ed. Niebuhr II. 530) proposes Arab. abū qirām ‘pannus cum intextis figuris’, but he does not say where he found this compound; the simple qirām is of doubtful meaning, the native lexicographers quoted in the Qāmūs giving the various renderings ‘red veil’, ‘striped and figured woollen cloth’, ‘thin veil’ (Freytag, s.v.). Others suggest derivation from Bokhara, or from Bulgaria, but this does not agree with the early Fr. forms.]
†1. A kind of fine linen or cotton fabric. Obs.
1222Ornamenta Eccl. Sarum in Register S. Osmund (1884) II. 132 Alba una de bukeram, cum parura, brodata. 1340Ayenb. 258 Þe queade riche þet zuo ofte ham ssredeþ ase of to zofte bougeren and of to moche of pris pourpre. 1411Licence to Bp. Waterford 26 Apr. in Close Roll, [To export from England to Ireland, duty free], 18 pec. de Bokerham. 1463Marg. Paston in Lett. 472 II. 132, I kan gettyn non gode bokeram in this town. 1475Hist. MSS. Commiss., Inv. Goods i. 555 A crosse of blue bokeram for the roode. 1548Thomas Rules Italian Grammar in Promp. Parv. 42 Bucherame, buckeramme, & some there is white, made of bombase, so thinne that a man mai see through it. 1552–3Inv. Ch. Goods Stafford., iij olde vestements, one of grene satten, the other of blewe buckeram. [1849–53Rock Ch. of Fathers II. vi. 104 The mitre was made of..plain, fine linen..which, during the Middle Ages, was known here in England under the name of ‘buckram’.]
2. A kind of coarse linen or cloth stiffened with gum or paste. men in buckram: sometimes proverbially for non-existent persons, in allusion to Falstaff's ‘four rogues in buckram’ (quot. 1596).
1436Pol. Poems (1859) II. 171 Fustiane, and canvase, Carde, bokeram, of olde tyme thus it wase. 1549Cheke in Ellis Orig. Lett. Lit. Men (1843) 8, I lack painted bucrum to lai betweyne bokes and bordes in mi studi. 1596Shakes. 1 Hen. IV, ii. iv. 217 Foure Rogues in Buckrom let driue at me. 1665Boyle Occas. Refl. (1675) Pref. 21 The fashion, that now-a-days allows our Gallants to wear fine Laces upon Canvass and Buckram. 1732Berkeley Alciphr. iii. §9 One of our ladies..stiffened..with hoops and whalebone and buckram. 1820Scott Abbot xv, My stomach..is..too well bumbasted out with straw and buckram.
†b. A lawyer's bag; = buckram-bag. Obs.
1608Tourneur Rev. Trag. iv. ii. 107 Yes, to looke long upon inck & black buckrom [in allusion to Attorneys' bags]. 1622Fletcher Sp. Curate iv. vii, To be..A Lawyer's Asse, to carry Bookes, and Buckrams.
3. fig. Stiffness; a stiff and starched manner; that which gives a man a stiff exterior.
1682H. More Annot. Glanvil's Lux O. 55 His Style, the texture whereof is not onely Fustian, but over-often hard and stiff Buckram. 1785Cornwallis Let. 24 May in Corr. (1859) I. vii. 191 A fine, good-humoured, unaffected lad, no pride or buckram. 1793Roberts Looker-on (1794) II. 181 To endure the confinement and buckram of any formal course of habit. 1822Hazlitt Men & Mann. Ser. ii. x. (1869) 196 Laying aside the buckram of pedantry and pretence.
4. attrib. or quasi-adj.
a. Of buckram, like buckram.
1537Bury Wills (1850) 129, I beqwethe to Robart Payne a bocram shert, and to yonge Mr. Robt a bocram shert. 1563–87Foxe A. & M. III. 623 She..took with her a Buckeram Apron. 1571R. Ascham Scholem. (Arb.) 100 To clothe him selfe with nothing els, but a demie bukram cassok. 1645Milton Colast. Wks. (1851) 365 A meer petti-fogger..so hardy, as to lay aside his buckram wallet, and make himself a fool in Print. 1820Byron Let. to Murray 12 Nov., Pointing to his buckram shirt collar and inflexible cravat. 1837Carlyle Fr. Rev. I. vi. i. 263 Well may the buckram masks start together, terror-struck.
b. fig. Stiff, ‘starched’, ‘stuck up’; that has a false appearance of strength.
a1589Fulke Agst. Allen 301 (L.) A few buckram bishops of Italy. 1603H. Crosse Vertues Commw. (1878) 122 Prostitute their ingenious labours to inrich such buckorome gentlemen. 1635E. Pagitt Christianogr. ii. vi. 60, 300 Buckram Bishops of the selfe same making. 1840Carlyle Heroes v. 287 A wondrous buckram style,—the best he [Johnson] could get. 1856I. L. Bird Englishwoman in America 374 In America no play was ever more successful than the ‘Buckram Englishman’.
5. Comb., as buckram-maker; also, buckram-bag, a lawyer's bag (sometimes = the lawyer himself); buckram-men, men in buckram (cf. 2).
1611L. Barrey Ram Alley i. in Dodsley (1780) V. 424 The buckram-bag must trudge all weathers. a1680Butler Rem. (1759) II. 313 His Face is like a Lawyer's Buckram Bag, that has always Business in it. c1644Cleveland Rupertismus (1687) 53 The terror of whose Name can out of seven Like Falstaf's Buckram-men, make fly eleven.
▪ II. buckram, v.|ˈbʌkrəm|
[f. prec.]
trans. To pad or stiffen with buckram; to give to anything a starched pomposity or a false appearance of strength. Also with out, up. Chiefly fig.
1783Cowper Task vi. 652 His most holy book..was never used before To buckram out the memory of a man. 1784Warton in Boswell Johnson (1831) V. 211 It may have been written by Walpole, and buckram'd by Mason. 1792Roberts Looker-on (1794) I. 53 You pinched, buckramed, and pomatumed me up to such a degree. 1855De Quincey in H. Page Life & Writ. II. xviii. 111 But afterwards—he buckramed or crinolined his graceful sketch with an elaborate machinery of gnomes and sylphs. |