At that time the price of wild salmon had collapsed under pressure from salmon farms.

Salmon farms in the estuaries through which the wild salmon must swim produce death-dealing clouds of sea lice that eat young fish alive.

A parasite that is dangerous to people is being found increasingly in wild salmon from rivers and estuaries.

Campaigners say farmed fish grow fat because they are reared in a confined space, compared with wild salmon that may have swum for hundreds of miles.

All the Arbroath smokies, the oak-smoked kippers, the tinned pilchards, the wild salmon leaping up the glens -- all that purine.