The town is full of ancient buildings in narrow streets, intriguing museums, unusual boutiques, cosy pubs and famous fish and chip shops, backed by the grandeur of the North York Moors.

I'd have a bracing swim, then walk to a cosy pub for lunch next to a roaring wood fire.

Now there are fine seafood restaurants, a golf course, cosy pubs, shops of collectibles, and a little sandy beach.