Four hours after we set off, we swoop downhill, startling a herd of reindeer, into a clearing smelling sweetly of woodsmoke: lodge number two.

It was set up to protect the world's largest herd of reindeer as well as snow sheep.

He discovered it by following the tracks of an enormous herd of reindeer across frozen sea ice.

There are herds of reindeer populating the stands.

And there are herds of reindeer too, albeit in the form of tanned hides.