It's an amble, really: 30 miles in total, one day walking for five hours, the next resting in a pretty hill town.

We ended up stuck in a gateway in one of those labyrinthine hill towns, unable to open the car doors.

The hill town's other ancient masonry buildings largely survived although many suffered structural damage.

In spring, summer and fall, shepherds from these neighboring hill towns maintain herds of sheep, semi-wild horses, and cattle in the plateau.

In the 1930s, the hill towns's fortified historic center was condemned by the government for fear that the volcanic cliffs the ancient community was built upon would collapse.