Dozens of cafs line the waterfront.

A string of trendy hotels catering to windsurfers, kitesurfers and wet-suit wearers of all kinds lines the waterfront, heralding the town itself.

At the island's harbour we gaze down from deck at the open-air bars lining the waterfront, with the area's beautiful young things lounging on sofas.

The belching chimneys and clanging machinery that once lined the waterfront have gone, and in their place are concert halls, slick university buildings and fancy restaurants.