Inside is a world of piñatas, sombreros, huaraches, folklorico dresses the colors of the Mexican flag, tortillas, cheeses, cowboy hats and countless Virgin Mary portraits.

As usual, he had ordered a huarache, a crisp tortilla shell topped with beans, red and green sauce, and salty cotija cheese.

Cactus also garnishes the slender huarache flatbreads, which feature a variety of meats, including a beer-marinated steak so lush, it rivals tenderloin.