| 释义 |
▪ I. serge|sɜːdʒ|
Forms: 4–6, 8 sarge, 6 surge, 7 searge, sierge, serg, sharge, 6– serge.
[a. OF. serge, sarge (mod.F. serge) = Pr. serga, sargua, Pg., Catal. sarja, Sp. sarga, Rumanian sárică:—popular L. *sārica = class.L. sērica (lāna): see seric a. and silk. From Fr. the word has passed into all the Teut. langs.: G. sarsche, serge, Du. sargie, Da. sars, sarge, Sw. sars.
The material originally designated by the name must have been silk, though there is no evidence of this in the early English (and app. not in the Romanic) uses of the word. But names of textile fabrics often come to be applied to materials cheaper and coarser than those which they originally designated.]
1. A woollen fabric, the nature of which has probably differed considerably at different periods. Before the 16th c. it is mentioned chiefly as material for hangings, bed-covers, and the like; afterwards it is often referred to as worn by the poorer classes (both men and women), perh. rather on account of its durability than of its price, which seems not to have been extremely low. The name now denotes a very durable twilled cloth of worsted, or with the warp of worsted and the woof of wool, extensively used for clothing and for other purposes.
Certain imported varieties were formerly known by French designations indicating the place of manufacture, as serge de Ghent, s. de Nismes, s. de Ro(h)an, s. de Shaloon.
c1386Chaucer Knt.'s T. 1710 The Citee large, Hanged with clooth of gold, and nat with sarge. 1491Acta Domin. Concil. (1839) 228/2, xxij coveringis of beddis of sarge, price x li. 1585T. Washington tr. Nicholay's Voy. i. viii. 8 Som peece of a white sarge or blanket. 1620Reg. Privy Council Scot. XII. 339 Seargeis Double and Single. 1631T. Powell Tom of All Trades 14 Where one is ready to take his rise out of Sierge into Sattin, out of Parsonage..into a Deanarie. 1648in Magrath Flemings Oxf. (O.H.S.) I. 391 For 8 ya. & halfe of serge de roan for sute..02 11 00. 1649J. Master in Archæol. Cant. XV. 182 For 3 ya. 3 quar. of serge de shaloon at 6s ye yard. 1683Repr. Advantages Manuf. Woollen-cloath 4 That sort of Serges called Stirling Serges. Ibid. 5 Mixt Searges, Cloath-Searges, and these called in France Searge de Nismes. 1695Motteux tr. St. Olon's Morocco 138 Serges de Nismes, Fustians and Dimities of Montpelier. 1728Chambers Cycl., Serge,..a Woollen cross'd Stuff, manufactured on a Loom with four Treddles, after the Manner of Rateens, and other cross'd Stuffs. 1757Dyer Fleece iii. 576 The Dune and Rother, who have won The serge and kersie to their blanching streams. 1835Lytton Rienzi i. i, The long loose gown and the plain tunic, both of dark-grey serge. 1861Our Engl. Home 174 The walls [of a bedroom, temp. Q. Eliz.] were hung with say, or the scarlet serge of Ghent. 1882M. E. Braddon Mt. Royal II. x. 221 Mopsy and Dopsy were dressed in home-made gowns of dark brown serge. 1882Caulfeild & Saward Dict. Needlework 443 There are a great many varieties of cloth known as Serge, viz. French Flannel Serge..; the Serge de Berri,..Witney Serges,..and Pompadour Flannel Serges. 1888[see navy blue s.v. navy1 6].
b. A garment made of serge.
1583T. Stocker Civ. Warres Lowe C. iii. 93 They slewe two of the watch, hauing gotten for their paines, three cloaks, one Cushin and a Sarge. 1899F. T. Bullen Way Navy 43 Many of them tore off their serges and cast themselves recklessly overside. 1906Daily Chron. 17 Oct. 6/6 ‘Serges’ —as the loose-fitting jacket is termed in the [police] force.
c. transf. and fig.
1599B. Jonson Cynthia's Rev. iii. ii, I wonder at nothing more then our gentlemen-ushers that will suffer a piece of serge, or perpetuana, to come into the presence. 1654Whitlock Zootomia 320 Let your black Serge pore on Books, it is not for Scarlet Boyes, to task themselves to such serious spendings of their time.
¶2. Used to translate L. sagum, in Vulg. with the sense of curtain. Cf. say n.1 2.
1382Wyclif Exod. xxvi. 8 The lengthe of the too sarge shal haue thretti cubitis, and the brede foure; euen mesure shal be of alle the sarges [MS. E. pr. m. say..says].
3. silk serge: a silk fabric twilled in the manner of serge, used for linings of coats, and formerly for mantles. Also † serge du soy (= Fr. serge de soie).
1844Ladies' Hand-bk. Haberdashery 15 Serge..is of various colors and qualities; it is known by its being a stout silk with a very fine twill. 1853Perkins Haberdashery (ed. 8) 112 Serge is a stout twilled silk..usually sold for lining the skirts, cuffs, and padded parts of coats. 1876J. R. Planché Cycl. Costume I. 450 A silken stuff called ‘sergedusoy’ was used in the last century for coats by the commonalty.
4. attrib. passing into adj. Made of serge.
1608Middleton Trick to catch Old One i. iv, He in the uneven beard and serge cloak. 1685Rec. Scott. Cloth Manuf. New Mills (S.H.S.) 105 Ane searge justicoat. 1690Child Disc. Trade (1698) 10 Let us ask..whether gentlewomen in those days would not esteem themselves well cloathed in a Serge gown, which a chamber maid now will be ashamed to be seen in. 1863Geo. Eliot Romola xiv, A serge covering..concealed the contents of the basket. 1880‘Ouida’ Moths I. 60 A white serge frock.
humorous.1593Shakes. 2 Hen VI, iv. vii. 27 Ah thou Say, thou Surge, nay thou Buckram Lord.
5. Comb., as serge-cloth, serge-clothier, serge-maker, serge manufacture, serge-market, serge-weaver. Also † serge-wale, ? a striped serge (see wale n.).
c1430Lydg. Min. Poems (Percy Soc.) 201 Lych a *seerge⁓cloth hire nekke is clene. 1829Lamb Let. to Gillman 30 Nov., A fall in serge cloth was expected.
1707Lond. Gaz. No. 4377/4 William Crooke,..*Serge-Clothier.
1689Ibid. No. 2420/4 Richard Richardson..had a Box of *Serge Makers Paper sent by his Wagoner. 1822Lysons Magna Brit. VI. Devonsh. p. cccii, At Honiton there is only one serge-maker.
1742De Foe's Tour Gt. Brit. (ed. 3) I. 310 Here we see the first of the *Serge-manufacture of Devonshire.
Ibid. 324 The *Serge-market held here every Week.
1682Lond. Gaz. No. 1762/4 Stolen..several Pieces of Rich Silk Druggets, *Serge-Wale, Thred Druggets.
1703Ibid. No. 3920/4 Tho. Noble,..a *Serge-Weaver by Trade.
▪ II. serge
see cierge, searce v., search n.1 and v. |